i’ve been questioning the idea of borders and nationalism for a while now, ever since i started work on my film A Thin Wall more than 9 years ago. what a treat then to witness the posturing, chanting, and use of political slogans and spectacle at the flag lowering ceremony at the wagah border, between india and pakistan. it’s interesting to look across the decorative gate (called bab-e-azadi on the pakistani side, meaning the freedom door) and see india, with a stadium full of patriotic indians cheering their border security force. the pakistanis too play patriotic songs in the interlude to the ceremony, making sure that they are loud enough to drown out indian music. the pakistani rangers are impressive – inordinately tall, lithe and elegant in how they perform a perfectly choreographed ceremony. there’s a crowd warmer who times and orchestrates all the chants and a drummer who helps the audience keep its rhythm. quite an experience.
